Crater Lake NP: Mt. Scott/Garfield Peak/The Watchman/PCT/Rim Trail 8/23-24/2020
I departed my RV park at 7 AM with the intention of hitting Mt. Scott (8929’), the highest peak in the park, sometime in the morning before checking in to Mazama campground. The drive was relatively short, about 2 and a half hours, and I was able to hit the trail at 9:30. The smoke was thick, making any vistas hazy and indistinct. I really enjoyed this climb, however, as it was relatively mild (5 miles RT/1300’) and I was able to tool along at a good pace. I like being in shape and maybe 15 pounds lighter than my usual winter weight. I’m assuming this comes from the combination of hiking for two weeks with my daughter and the fact that I have to feed myself in the van. Soon enough I was on the broad summit, with hazy indistinct views in all directions….I couldn’t even make out the lake, it was all a white slurry vision. No sense hanging around, though the breezes were cool and stiff, so I descended into mouth juice hell at Rim Village. Packed on a Sunday, as to be expected, so I spent little time here and shot pics of the Crater Lake Lodge, open but only guests could enter the grounds. Nonetheless, this looks like a magnificent stay if the inside is anything like the outside. Luckily, parking was no issue and I left the zoo for Mazama Village and campground. I had booked the campground for two nights but my name was highlighted so I had to go inside and check in. While there I picked up some canned wine, beer and, in anticipation for a longer hike the next day, a very large Crater Lake Ale. Move over cheese, these things are taking priority in the fridge space.
I spent the afternoon doing chores. Van life is not all relaxing, it takes constant upkeep. I did two loads of laundry in the Scrubba and hung everything out to dry at the back of the van, swept and cleaned the floor, which is under constant bombardment from dust and dirt. Then I spent considerable time cleaning off the thousands of tiny insects from the windshield and front end; on the trip over there were swarms of them. Luckily, they had toasted enough in the afternoon sun to make fairly easy removal with some wipes. Then I orbited the inside, cleaning off my dusty handprints from the seats and generally wiping everything down. All told, I spent about 2 to 3 hours working on housekeeping. But of course, I was also partaking of a few of the beers I had bought, so no bother, I was feeling good. Finally it was time to make dinner. After doing the dishes, I took a nice hot shower and changed into sweats. I set one of my chairs up outside, read some of my book, and sipped some wine as the evening wore into eventual darkness. I experienced a profound sense of peace, thankful for good health and, after a lifetime of hard work, the ability to enjoy retirement without anything to worry about. .
Day 2. I got up to my alarm at 6:10 AM….why set even numbers? I was anticipating a minimum 20 mile day and maybe 9 or 10 hours of hiking, so I cooked up a 3 egg omelet with all the fixins’. I had done most of my packing the night before so I merely had to change and head out the door. It’s a 5 mile trek to Rim Village via the Annie Springs Trail and connecting to the PCT. The crowds were noticeably thinner, with fairly empty parking lots, and I made a beeline past the Lodge to the start of the Garfield Peak (8054’) climb. Once again I found a mild trail and tooled up without stopping until the summit. The smoke was still around, although I was catching glimpses of blue skies, and I could actually make out some of the features of the lake. I ran down the trail, as it was very conducive to trotting, and passed through the Village and onto the Discovery trail, which after one mile becomes the Rim Trail. I ran into people near the vehicle turnoffs, but the sections in between were devoid of people. The Rim Trail reminded me of the Wonderland as it proceeds next to Mowich Lake, but the opening views were of course much more dramatic here. There were a lot of steepish ups and downs on this trail, but it generally climbs as it approaches the turnoff for The Watchman (8013’). This too was a gentle trail and I blasted up in short order, still feeling good. The lookout is an interesting stone and timber building, not the original based on the historic photos. These were probably the best views I had seen so far, as the afternoon winds seemed to help with dissipating the smoke. The blue skies were becoming clearer and the blue water was distinguishing itself from the white veil from the day before. Details of Wizard Island started to pop and, on my return leg, I could see the far side of the rim. The Rim Trail is very dramatic, with stone jutting, trees a treeing and steep drop-offs at every turn. Very enjoyable. Keeping track of my mileage, I anticipated a 23 mile day and this was about spot on. As for altitude, I have no idea as I write this….there is no cell service in Mazama campground, so Strava is a big zilch. Seems like I should have more than 3000’ on this trip at least….tomorrow will reveal….4600’ of climb.
The first thing I did when I got back to the van was take off my shoes and open that big Crater Lake Ale. My feet were so dusty I had to wash off outside before even thinking of taking a shower. But 80 percent of that big beer later, I did. I don’t need to get up early tomorrow so I’ll do the laundry in the morning, as my next camp spot near Bend has no facilities, including water. I’m not sure what I’m going to do there, but I did want to climb South Sister, which is 1 and a half hours from where I’m staying. I’ll figure it out. I’m basically on my last stop before arriving at my son’s place in Seattle. Lot’s to do there, but I think I’ll have some time to recreate in my old stomping ground, Mt. Rainier.