2022 Wonderland Trail Prep

My goal this year is to do the Wonderland twice; once in 2 sections as a trainer, and once as a thru. Long term I’d like to do the Wonderland 50 times. To date I have hiked it 33 times, and at age 67 once a year would mean #50 at age 83. I’m optimistic that this is possible, but I might want to get a head start on the numbers.

The Hikes….my plan is to first section hike between Longmire and Sunrise, self supported by bike. By parking at Sunrise both times I can at least start at a high point, making the biking portion a little less strenuous. The eastern section hike involves 36 miles with about 6000’ of elevation, so I would do this one first. The western section is longer at 57 miles with about 16,000’ of elevation, surely making for quite a long day. Hopefully I can space these approximately 2 weeks apart, completing hike #34, then doing #35 as a thu hike before the season is out. The following map shows the distance and elevation on bike: 57 miles with 4400’ of climb and 8000’ of descent.

Biking from Sunrise to Longmire: 57 miles/4400’ climb-8000’ descent (Google maps)

Old Trek 5500 on Kikr Snap trainer

Training is paramount. For general fitness and leg strength, I am upping my bike game this year, utilizing a bike trainer. This allows me to target specific thresholds and allows for consistent training. If I’m traveling and unable to bike, I will run. As spring approaches I will concentrate on trail running, hitting the excellent local training ground of the Tiger Mountain complex. I have a background in running, mountaineering, ultrarunning, off trail travel and scrambling. I am very comfortable in the outdoors and this experience means I can pack appropriately. Most of my prior Wonderland hikes have been in 3 days, or shorter in sections. Last year I was comfortably able to cover the 30 plus miles and over 8000’ elevation days, usually turning in about 17 hours per day on trail. This leaves plenty of lounging time during the day.

Borah Gear bivy on the Colonnade, Mt. Rainier National Park

The Gear I’ve been “ultralighting” for quite some time, since the early 90’s. I constantly seek out improvements in gear that will make my outdoors sojourns more comfortable and/or safer (gotta love that InReach). My plans this year will not involve camping on the shorter Eastern section, and maybe one night on the Western section, probably utilizing Mowich Lake. Therefore I don’t need to get embroiled in the permit process, unless I do a walkup like last year. This also means that I can time my hikes for periods of good weather, as I have been doing for over 35 years. However, I always carry shelter and a sleep system, so this year I will probably use:

Shelter: Custom Borah Gear bivy (WPB): 9.1 ozs

Sleep: Timmermade Alpha Direct “overbag” (sized down): 8 ozs

Pack: Orange Mud 20L Adventure Pack: 22 ozs MAYBE I have been using a smaller Orange Mud pack of the same design for trail running and biking. The Adventure Pack is quite a bit heavier than my other options (the lightest being a zpacks DCF at 4.7 ozs) but the Adventure Pack is made for running, and I plan on these hikes to involve a bit more trotting than in the past. The higher riding pack with no hip belt will also fit well with the bike segments. I will have 2 bottles available in the shoulder holsters and a container of Tailwind plus gear, and this pack keeps everything centered high with little to no bounce. This will probably be a last minute decision, as I can always use my Zimmerbuilt (14 ozs) that I used last year. Decisions decisions.

Pad: MLD 1/4” Goodnight EVA foam pad: 6.6 ozs (or less if I cut to 3/4 length)

I really hate fussing with a bunch of individual items, so the system above is intended to be “throw down.” I will leave the pad and bag inside the bivy and just roll it up. If it doesn’t fit inside my pack I will strap it to the bottom. My system last year was fine, but extracting each item from its individual stuff sack (and keeping tabs on them) and blowing up the pad was still a PITA after a 17 hour day, along with doing this in the dark. My plan this year is unroll and get in. Although I have enjoyed the cush of blow up pads for a few years now, I always did OK with minimal padding in the past….and just a few years ago I had no pad, I just rolled out on some soft duff. I will probably cut the foam down to 3/4 size as I always put my pack under my feet/legs.

Even with the relatively heavy Adventure Pack, my “big 4” still come in under 3 lbs. This leaves plenty of room for food and clothing. I am making a few changes on clothing this year, namely my pants will be Beyond Clothing Avid Ultralight pant (oh so comfy but still with zippered pockets and no belt needed). For quite some time I’ve been using the ever popular OR Echo hooded shirt (I must be careful about sun exposure), but have found what I believe to be a better alternative: the Ketl No Fry sun hoodie. It fits better, has the front snaps for some ventilation, and has a higher UPF rating of 30. I am awaiting my Timmermade products, the above mentioned Alpha Direct overbag and an Alpha Direct 4004 Hoodie (hopefully not beyond the 14 week lead time). The Hoodie will be paired with an EE Copperfield wind shirt if needed. I will probably pack my trusty zpacks poncho/groundsheet (5.7 ozs) for rain and other uses.

Cycling: important cross training

Other Items: I use my iPhone 13 as a camera and pack along a shoulder mounted GoPro Hero 9. I may also bring my GoPro Max for 360 if it works out. Plus throw in the usual doodads like sunscreen, toothbrush, minimal foot kit and first aid, hat, gloves, sunglasses….sorry Redditors, I don’t weigh eveything out and post it on lighterpack, as I know that all my stuff, including clothing, food and 1 liter of water will not exceed 12 pounds, which I find unnoticeable. That has always been my guage.

My methods and gear list is obviously not for someone doing an 8-14 day hike of the Wonderland. Plus I know that, philosophically, many don’t understand fastpacking. But it’s what I do; I revel in being on my feet all day and into the night, carrying an unnoticeable load and spending practically no time in “camp.” I take breaks in fantastic places or just sit in the woods listening to owls hoot. I give thanks that I am able to pull off these longish days as I approach 70. I also spend a lot of time in Mt. Rainier National Park during the year; skiing, biking, hiking and peak bagging, so I’m not limited to enjoying the park only on a Wonderland hike.

Disclaimer: I have no professional affiliations with any of the products listed above and receive no benefit if the reader clicks on the links, which are provided only as a courtesy.

Willis Wall Holiday Year in Review 2021

Been a busy year at Willis Wall. Relocating back to the Pacific Northwest, basing out of the van for 5 months logging hundreds of miles and thousands of feet on foot, bike and skis. Besides my usual stomping ground at Mt. Rainier National Park, I trained at the US Air Force Academy, did the High Sierra Trail with my daughter to Mt Whitney, managed a week of cycling in Italy, turned in one of my best Wonderland Trail hikes and hit some great places like Olympic National Park, Colorado National Monument, Dinosaur National Monument, Craters of the Moon National Monument, White Sands National Park, Great Sand Dunes National Park, Joshua Tree National Park and Saguaro National Park. Family matters precluded the time to write original music this year so I recycled some Christmas tunes from previous projects. I wish viewers good health and happiness for the coming year!

Winnebago Solis P 25,000 mile followup

Last fall I posted a Solis review after a few months of ownership with 14,000 miles of travel. You can access that 2020 post here. This is a followup review after 25,000 miles of travel and, recently, 5 months of living and basing out of the van.

Under cab electrical schematic supplied by Winnebago for the Solis P

First I want to address a few things from the prior blog post. I spent months dealing with an authorized service center outside Colorado Springs with an outfit that underwent serious personnel changes and sketchy record keeping. The electrical problem that I described in that post turned out to be inaccurate. They were finally able to obtain a basic schematic (see above) of the undercarriage electrical box and apparently that 5 Amp breaker was correctly placed. The problem was in the wiring, or so they said. The good news is that I haven’t had a breaker or fuse trip since the repair and have experienced no further electrical problems in the van. However, potential purchasers should be aware of serious problems that have cropped up among owners of the Solis: Water leaks in the “pizza oven” area (storage compartment above the cab), usually caused by improper sealing of the running lights when they were reinstalled on the upper front roof area. Another area of concern with leakage is water collecting around the pop top, especially if the van is parked on a nose down slant, then leaking into the van when the vehicle is moved. Also many owners are having problems with the forward floor water hookup either not working or leaking. And the latest involves the fresh water tank bulging when full and splitting the wood framing under the sink area, reportedly caused by a “bad batch” of tanks. As in my first blog post, I strongly encourage owners or wannabes to join the Solis Facebook Group, where these and other issues and concerns are discussed, as well as tips and tricks…lots of good information.

Now as to the leaky shower pan….not the problem. The water collecting in the cassette compartment is from something entirely different, and to this day I know not what it is. Further experimentation determined that water leakage/collection in the cassette bay only happened when hooked up to city water. I have yet to experience any problems when not hooked up to water. Because I left Colorado for the PNW in the middle of May, my solution was simply not to use city water….”Doctor, it hurts when I move like this….(Doctor): well, don’t move like that.”

My upgrades to the Solis (LED headlamps not shown)

While hanging in Colorado for the winter I did manage some upgrades of what I considered important for my use. #1 Wet Okole seat covers: I have mentioned previously that the seats aren’t the best in the Solis P. Wet Okole makes high quality (US manufactured) seat covers where one can add lumbar support and heaters. I found that the simplistic but effective bulb squeeze lumbar support gives me just that little extra to make long hours in the seat much more comfortable. Plus I added seat heaters to both seats. Granted, this arrangement is not as elegant as integrated seats, what with cords having to be plugged in to a DC outlet(s) and a squeeze bulb hanging off the side of the drivers seat. But these covers are so nice it’s almost like getting new seats; bonus, I can use a wet wipe to clean them. #2 Landed Gear spare tire carrier: Spare tires aren’t needed, until they are. I used the goo and pump to rescue a stranded Tesla on the rough road to Mowich Lake (MRNP). #3 LED headlamps: Brighter and better. #4 Thule Elite Van XT bike rack: Door mounted because I do a lot of cycling and wanted to keep the length profile short. A hitch mounted rack would extend the length of the van by a few feet. It took me a few months to finally find one in Denver. #5 Gray tank outlet cover: the supplied cover is a bear to get off, a common complaint for a lot of Solis owners. The replacement has a good grip handle and offers a side benefit of a hose sized port. It does stick out a little more though.

This photo involved a 25 mile hike with 7700’ of vertical while base camping in the Solis, Mt. Rainier NP

I’m happy to report that I have experienced no further problems with the van with the exception of the cheesy cabinet finish. The laminate, especially on the trim pieces, is beginning to separate. Now that I am in a more permanent place, I will glue the offending pieces back. But if that’s all I have to complain about, especially after the nightmare of the water panel and electrical systems, then I’m good. And yes, eventually the parts came in for replacing the cracked fittings; I have since insulated that space with a combination of Reflectix and 2 inch stuffable insulation, including Reflectix on the floor. And to ensure further protection, I bought a 400W small ceramic heater which I’ve aimed directly into the vent for the water innards under the bed. This of course only works if I am hooked up to 20/30 Amp service. I also made insulated window inserts out of Reflectix and 1” bat insulation, covered by nylon. They are big enough to cover the entire window area but small enough to fit into the zippered window coverings, which hold them in place. During colder temps there will be condensation on the inside of the windows; the waterproof nylon coverings protect the innards of the inserts from getting wet.

DIY thrifty insulation upgrades to rear area of Solis P/Plugged in items (Only on 20/30 Amp service)

Each Solis window has a DIY insulated insert: Reflectix + 1” bat insulation covered by nylon: views of one insert, various stages

Recently my daughter and I got to use the pop top in cold weather; not necessarily freezing temps but close to it. She had a hefty comforter up there and was quite comfortable, despite the significant difference in temps between the up and down spaces. Consider reports of the pop top closing under even relatively light snow loads and the camper must weigh whether to use that upper space in true freezing/winter conditions. Personally I look at the upper bunk as a summer space. NOTE ON COLD WEATHER USE: I have a seamstress friend who can make an insulating curtain to seal off the cab. I have been hanging the supplied black curtain to help with this function, but want a floor to ceiling covering that splits in the middle between the seats. I also plan on making a cover for the rectangular hole to the pop top. I believe these further improvements will make the Solis very winter capable and allow me to camp for at least one night at Crystal Mountain (there are about 40 spaces in the lower parking lot with electrical hookups) for 2 days of skiing. Worth a try at least. I would leave the van winterized and just use a few water containers for the toilet and teeth brushing.

Street parking on Camano Island Airbnb

Mini Aussie in passenger seat

As I mentioned above, I spent 5 months in the van starting May 11. I spent very few days in an RV park with hookups, but many nights in national parks or monuments off grid. Sprinkled in were stays at friend’s places where I slept in the van but hung out with them in their homes. My son’s driveway was utilized a lot where I got to borrow his dog for walks, runs and frolicking in the van; she is just the right size, being a mini Aussie. My wife was in the PNW June and July renting various places or doing a hotel stay, so I would join her then. I had no problems parking the van when not in use as it can fit into a regular parking space. The rest of the time would find me mostly at Mt. Rainier National Park for 2 to 4 nights at a time, with a few stays at Olympic. This combination of van living and access to long showers, laundry, WiFi and other amenities basically took the pressure off much of the downside trying to live full time in the tiny van space. Even after a full year of use, there’s nothing quite like a long day in the outdoors and coming back to the van tired, gross and hungry but able to take a hot shower, change into clean clothes, pour a glass of wine and cook up a scrumptious meal. Then when the chill sets in crank the heat whilst watching NetFlix downloads and lounging in a comfortable bed, finally turning off the iPad after it whacks me in the face because I dropped it falling asleep. After a whirlwind year of use I am probably more pleased with this purchase now than in the beginning.

Solis at White Sands National Park

Lonely Solis at Joshua Tree National Park

MRNP: Third Burroughs/Central Cowlitz Chimney 9/15-16/21

After a fabulous week of biking in Italy I deemed it pertinent to get my hiking legs back in action. Armed with a good weather forecast, I drove to the White River campground at Mt. Rainier on Wednesday afternoon and secured a spot, much easier now that the summer crowds have diminished. I thought a jaunt up to Third Burroughs Mountain (7828’) would be in order, utilizing the Glacier Basin trail to the Burroughs cut off. Once above 7,000’ I was greeted by blustery cold winds, quite invigorating. A left turn led me to Third Burroughs and the attendant views. Despite a cloud layer bisecting the mountain, the views were still impressive. I wandered the expanse of the peak and peered down on the Winthrop Glacier and Inter Glacier, marveling that I had skied the Inter not so long ago; this day it was looking a little ragged and sparse. The lateness of the day helped ensure solitude on the peak and I took pleasure in seeing my long shadow in front of me as I descended on the return leg, with my exaggerated lower legs and tiny head bobbing down the scree. It was nice to revisit this perch to one of the better views in the park.

Rainier/Winthrop Glacier from Third Burroughs Mountain (7828’)

The real goal of this trip was to tag the summit of Central Cowlitz Chimney (7421’), a described moderate scramble appropriate for my solo sojourns. I had recently visited Banshee (7400’) and scouted the approximate route I would take to access Central Cowlitz. Once again I just started from my camping spot at White River vice packing up and driving to the Fryingpan Creek trailhead, a move that would cost me over 5 miles round trip but worth the convenience. This would be the fifth time this year I have transited the Summerland area. From deep snow to fall colors, I have thoroughly enjoyed the nuances of changing seasons here. The Sarvant cross country zone is always a pleasure and this trip had constant wide open views. From Banshee (7400’) one must contour around to access Central Cowlitz Chimney, and not being familiar with the terrain I ended up staying too high, necessitating energy expending scrambling lower to finally access the saddle leading to the peak. The saddle was marked by a lounging goat, who eventually sauntered away as I approached. Eyeing the peak, I started a traverse to the right, which brought me to a steep blocky wall. Knowing the summit was just above, I actually started to climb this, but soon came to my senses. There are rules I have for solo travel, and one is no class 4 climbing. So close, yet perhaps unattainable. However, I knew this peak was described as a moderate scramble so I turned back. Mere paces later I came to an obvious way to the top and the remainder of the scramble was easy indeed. Topping out revealed one of the coolest views I have seen from any of the sub peaks in the park so far. The sheer wall below Banshee looked like a scene out of “Dune”, except for the Sarvant Glacier that flowed from its base. Perched atop this massive wall was Rainier, slightly opaque from the smoke that had been creeping in the whole afternoon. A glorious sight indeed!

Looking across Goat Island Mountain to the Cowlitz Chimneys

With the day now halfway done, I smartly contoured lower, avoiding the rocky outcroppings, and rejoined the meadow that would take me to Panhandle Gap. The rest of the day was cruise mode on slightly sore legs back to my waiting van. Just another incredible day in the park!

Mt. Rainier from Panhandle Gap

Central Cowlitz Chimney (7421’), Mt. Rainier National Park

MRNP: Foss/Plummer/Pinnacle Peaks (Aug 24-25, 2021)

I revisited one of my favorite areas of Mt. Rainier National Park these two days, that being the Tatoosh Range. A short approach on the Pinnacle Peak Trail (1.3 miles, starting at 4900’) deposits the hiker right in the midst of peak after peak, all featuring 360 degree views with an ever present expansive view towards the mountain. I was joined by my buddy and his wife, promising them a worthy day without undue mileage. Once we gained the saddle at the end of the Pinnacle Peak trail, we proceeded on the way trail to the summit of Plummer Peak (6370’), one I had visited last year. Plummer is basically a walk up peak so I knew the enjoyment and wow factor of the wide ranging views would delight my companions. Excellent cool weather certainly added to the alpine bliss.

Approaching the summit of Plummer Peak (6370’)

In 2020 I had turned back on Pinnacle Peak, not feeling right at the time. I told my buddy that this is not one he would probably want to do. However, we could survey the entire route and watched someone high on the ridge. Verdict: “Let’s at least take a look.” We got to a place where his wife decided not to continue so I was expecting to summit solo. But CB decided to come with me. Pinnacle is described as a “moderate scramble” in the Mountaineers book but we encountered sustained class 3 climbing until relenting near the summit. The hardest part of this climb was down climbing, as the steepness necessitated facing in. There were no mishaps and Pinnacle ticked #60 from the 100 list for me. I don’t see a necessity to repeat this scramble.

Rainier from Pinnacle Peak (6562’)

Now the day before I did Foss (6524’), also described as a “moderate scramble.” These two peaks were night and day, as I found a way trail from the beginning that essentially led me all the way to the Foss summit. There was nothing “moderate” about that entire day, it was easy. Go figure on who writes these descriptions; the Mountaineers book is now out of production. I had a later start for Foss but the well established trail took most of the navigation stress out of the picture. I was able to enjoy a late afternoon summit and enjoyable stroll back to my van at Cougar Rock campground with plenty of light left in the day. There are 3 more peaks in the Tatoosh that I may be able to do solo; Lane, Stevens and Boundary. Unicorn and The Castle are listed as climbs and require a partner who knows what they are doing. Perhaps some other time. Video of these peaks can be found in the Off Trail pulldown.

View on the trek to Foss Peak (6524’)

The Castle (right) and Pinnacle Peak from Foss summit (6524’)

High Sierra Trail (Mt. Whitney): 8/7-12/2021

Last year my daughter and I did a loop starting at Mineral King with a portion of it on the High Sierra Trail. This year we returned to cover the whole trail starting at Crescent Meadow with a carry over (after tagging the summit of Mt. Whitney (14,495’) to the Whitney Portal. This video provides an excellent background on the construction and history of the High Sierra Trail. At the end of this post there is a video of the Whitney climb itself.

The trail can be seen cut into the hillsides behind us

Our itinerary was probably typical for hiking this section, or at least close to it. After securing our permit the day before our hike (necessitating covering the serpentine road to Crescent Meadow), we struck out early on August 7 from Crescent Meadow. There was an active search still in progress for a missing hiker who, as of this writing, unfortunately hasn’t been found. Our original plan was to do an out and back, carrying 8 days of food, making for a 120 mile trip. This would change, TBD later. With heavy packs schlepping two bear cans, we wanted to make it to Big Hamilton Lake for the first night so bypassed Bear Paw at 11.5 miles. This is a spectacular section of the trail, climbing higher into the towering granite surroundings. The trail has been cut into the stone slopes, epitomized by the section around Hamilton Gorge. This was at first spanned by a suspension bridge, the remnants of which can be seen scattered in the gorge, wiped out by an avalanche soon after it was constructed. On the climb to Hamilton Lake, one of our favorite spots is a small pool of water that cascades over polished rock out of sight. An excellent place to take a break and replenish water. My daughter and I are used to hiking in the PNW, where campsites are specified by site number, at least in a park like Mt. Rainier. On this trek we got used to just laying out the tent on any available non vegetated spot. At least Hamilton had an established loo, one of only a few we encountered. It baffled us why Sequoia NP does not have a solar or pit toilet in all the established camping areas, especially considering the high usage and the trend towards even more people partaking of the park(s). Essentially you have hundreds of people over a week having to scope out appropriate spots to try and dig a cat hole, very hard to do properly with the rocky soil available. This is a problem that really must be addressed if we don’t want to have human excrement under every rock; concentrate into one area. But enough of my fecal fecundity…Hamilton Lake was pleasant enough as an overnight spot, making for a 17 mile day.

The refreshing pool below Hamilton Lake

Day 2 had us leaving Hamilton Lake early to avoid the blazing sun on the climb up to Precipice Lake, something that knackered us on last year’s trip. It can get very hot on some of these climbs with the sun reflecting off the light colored granite. We enjoyed the changing views down to the lake as we climbed with the sun hitting the adjacent peaks and reflecting in the lake. Arriving at Precipice Lake is a delight and called for a long break for soaking feet and eating. Being the first ones there, we occupied the primo spot and lingered for quite a while. Upon leaving my daughter affixed her umbrella to her pack to mitigate the effects of the now blazing sun, a very effective strategy. The climb to Kaweah Gap was pleasant and, after taking in the views of the Big Arroyo, we descended into the valley. Our original plan was to transit the Chagoopa Plateau and camp at Moraine Lake, but when we were enjoying the terrain of the Chagoopa we came across a perfect camping spot at 10,500’ with ready access to water and decided to turn in early. We knew we could make good time on the descent the following day so enjoyed our solitary camp, settling down well before dark. Of note, the star show was incredible with the Milky Way visible across the entire night sky.

The always impressive Precipice Lake

Tiny oasis approaching Kaweah Gap

View transiting the Chagoopa Plateau

Day 3 After an early get up we practically ran down to the junction past Moraine Lake, making excellent time. As I perused my photos from this day, I only took a few. We descended into the Kern Valley and a very hot afternoon was spent doing the gradual climb up the valley through the burn zone from last year. That climb bordered on miserable in the unshaded heat. By the time we reached our spot for the night at Junction Meadow, we had only climbed about 1600’ but covered 20 miles; we were ready for a break.

Kern River

Kern Valley burn zone

Day 4 (14 miles/4200’) was a positioning day; hike to Guitar Lake for an early getup to climb Whitney. Early for us that is, some get up so as to be on top at sunrise. We just wanted to get the switchbacks done (10) before the junction to the spur trail to the summit. Now for that “TBD” earlier: during the evening we were discussing my daughter’s increasing blister problem on one foot and texted my wife via InReach as to the possibility of a ride from the portal back to our vehicle. As it turns out, transportation was available so we decided to go for it. One benefit was that we could hike the entire trail to its end at Whitney Portal. One drawback was that we needed to pack up and lug all our stuff to the junction at 13,500’. Guitar Lake is another camp spot without established sites, but we were able to find a fairly level spot below some other tents. Not sure what some late comers did for their setup that evening as everything seemed to be taken on both sides of the lake and campers are not supposed to set up on any vegetation. We were able to establish camp and eat before dark and settled in for our 3 AM alarm.

Near Forester Pass on our way to Guitar Lake

Timberline Lake with Whitney in the background

Sunset on Mt. Whitney (14,495’)

Day 5 we were up at 3 and on the trail by 3:45. The first part was of course in the dark, but it didn’t take long before the predawn light was enough to see the loftiness of our ascent. Views towards the lakes below gradually became backlit by the rising sun illuminating the peaks beyond, making for a grand spectacle. Without troubles we arrived at the junction for the spur trail to the summit, where we dropped our packs and bear cans like most others. I donned my daughters pack and carried our water for the summit out and back. It seems our timing was excellent in that the earlier risers were coming down, and the day hikers were behind us. We enjoyed a fairly uncrowded summit, perhaps no more than 10 people or so the entire time we were there. The summit block is fairly flat and we wandered around to take in the 360 degree views. There is a summit hut that was constructed in 1909 with a warning for hikers not to take shelter there during lightning storms. We signed the summit register and started back for the junction, but only after my daughter discovered we had cell service; she FaceTimed my wife so she could also see some summit views. Others also checked in when they discovered we had service. Lots of day hikers were now making their way for the summit as we descended. Back at the junction, we loaded up, filtered some more water we had packed, and made our way down the 99 switchbacks on the other side. Our goal was to stop at Outpost Camp for the night, 3.5 miles from Whitney Portal. That way we could get up early enough to get some breakfast and clean up before pickup the following day. It was on this segment that my daughter was glad we had arranged for transportation because her blisters were only getting worse; putting in another 3 days and 60 miles would not have pegged her fun meter, and by association, mine either. As we neared Outpost I forged ahead to set up camp so she could just attend to her feet when she got there. Harking back to my comment about lack of latrines at these camps, I discovered 3 poop bags people had left in the bushes near one of the available spots. It’s only going to get worse. With plenty of time, we cleaned up and made dinner, again in the tent before dark.

View on the climb out of Guitar Lake

Rugged terrain on the spur trail to the summit of Whitney

From the Mt. Whitney summit (14,495’)

Negotiating the 99 switchbacks above Trail Camp

Our last day was just descending the rest of the way to Whitney Portal (8300’), arriving shortly after the general store opened so we could enjoy breakfast and clean up for the long ride back to the vehicle at Crescent Meadow. Most of the day hikers had already departed from the portal, many passing by our camp spot during the early dark hours. It was very quiet and peaceful there at 8 AM. It took most of the day to arrive at Crescent Meadow, and we still had 1.5 hours from there to our hotel for the night. None of this was anything to complain about after such a spectacular trip and my daughter’s feet were already on the mend. We felt fortunate indeed to enjoy one of the Sierra’s classic hikes with splendid conditions.

Early light on the descent from Outpost Camp to the Whitney Portal

A welcome sign after hiking the High Sierra Trail

A shoulder mounted camera captures the essence of our climb from Guitar Lake to the summit.

MRNP: Barrier/Buell/Banshee

These video scrambles can be viewed on the OFF TRAIL pulldown

The barrier before Barrier Peak

Chipping away at the Mountaineers 100 peaks in MRNP has provided for solitary days and splendid views. After last week's Wonderland trail hike, I took a few days to recover and went back to the park, camping at White River. I had my mountain bike with me as I wanted to get multiple climbs to Sunrise in along with the hiking, but half way up on the first afternoon I noticed a lot of bouncing going on...my rear tire was going flat. I pumped it up and beat feet back down the hill. When I went to change out the tube, I discovered that all my spares were for my other two bikes. So much for biking.

I slept in and the next day I drove to the Owyhigh Lakes trailhead, surprisingly empty. This trail is quite nice, not rocky or rooty with a good grade for both ascending and descending. Shortly after passing the lakes I set out on a way trail to access Barrier Peak (6521'). The route description was sparse to say the least. I endured some unpleasant steep tree and meadow hiking, passing the barrier (not Barrier Peak, but it's a big hunk of rock) on the right. I mistakenly climbed to a notch which was a waste of energy and had to drop back down, finally finding a relatively clear shot to Barrier Peak. This was hot work and I finally arrived at the summit huffing and puffing. It's hard to describe these top out moments as the breeze cools me off while I rotate for 360 degree views. As I was climbing, the tippy top of Rainier started peeking out and the views towards the mountain from Barrier had the Cowlitz Chimneys as a foreground. From there I set out to Buell (5756') via a connecting ridge, which proved to be quite doable for this old man. All the while the views smacked me in the face on either side and eventually I came to the gentle meadows that led to the summit of Buell, meadows that enticed me from the Barrier summit. Buell is more of a walk up but open enough to continue the viewfest.

Rainier from the Summit of Barrier Peak (6521’)

The only thing left was to launch into the forest and drop down to the Owyhigh Lakes trail, and on this account I managed to completely miss the climbers trail if there was one. At least 5 times I was on my bum on very steep terrain, sometimes availing myself of a dry wash off and on as I descended. The slope abated at last and suddenly I found myself on the trail, relieved to be out of that mess. My hands were covered in dirt and pitch from tree and veggie belays. I was quite happy to have such nice trail for trotting back to the van, which I drove back to my spot at White River and proceeded to take a hot shower, drink a cold beer, make dinner and basically chill. Sweet.

Trailside flowers below Summerland

Spur of the moment the next day I decided to hit Banshee and maybe Central Cowlitz and set out at the latish hour of 10 AM from White River. This added nearly 6 miles RT to the day vice just driving and parking at the Fryingpan Creek trailhead but I figured there would be no parking there for me anyway. There was a new bridge over the White River so I was able to avoid the road walk, which I had done the week before. Again these trails are quite pleasant with easy going and I knew the meadow climb to Banshee was also mild. I kicked back to enjoy a longish 21 mile RT day, which in comparison to my 30+ mile days on the Wonderland seemed kinda easy. The flowers were blooming on the slopes to Banshee and the goats were below cooling themselves off on a snow field. I like Banshee in that it's basically a walk up but when you stand on the summit it's one of the airiest views I've seen, dropping down to the Sarvant Glacier far below. I departed with the thought to hit Central Cowlitz but as I scoped out the slopes and looked at my watch, I decided to hit that another day. At 3 PM it would have put me back at White River after 9 PM; I need my beauty rest. I was crossing the White River bridge at 7:30 PM so the day worked out just right.

Sure there are times when the going is "quite unpleasant" on some of these off trail summit jaunts, but how I enjoy the solitude, the views and the toil that comes with it. Although I've been exploring MRNP for almost 40 years, it's only been in the last 10 or so that I've been venturing into the "wilds" of the park, divorcing myself from the main boulevards and venturing into the unknown. I have yet to see one other person on these peak bagging trips when I get off the access trails, something to be embraced with the ever increasing crowds and traffic we have all seen. This alone makes the effort worthwhile.

Cowlitz Chimneys from Banshee Peak (7400’)

Rainier from the meadow below Banshee

Wonderland Trail in 3 Days: Jul 20-22/2021 (#33)

Once again I am thankful to be healthy enough to pull off another 3 day transit of Mt. Rainier’s Wonderland Trail. Most of my past Wonderland hikes have been in the fall, so this circuit in July provided some significant contrasts. The longer days meant I spent most of my trail time sans headlamp, putting in 14-15 hour days. I was able to get 6 hours of rest both nights. The flower show was sometimes astounding, with entire meadows carpeted with avalanche lilies and hillsides bursting with myriad colors. The temperatures were mild but not too cold at night; my minimalist fastpack kit was just right for the conditions. I was fit enough to enjoy less suffering than last year and more time enjoying my surroundings. It had been a while since I did a CCW route, so the views were fresh. I also chose the alternate route over Spray Park, last done in 2015. The climbs and descents were different. Everything about this hike was a delight with the exception of occasional periods of persistent mosquitos, something I avoided in my fall hikes. Another downside: trail maintenance on the west side of the mountain was lacking. I encountered a fair number of blowdowns, some requiring crotch -stretching-bark burning gyrations to get around or under behemoth trees. The South Mowich River crossing was still lacking a bridge, requiring a ford (assisted by a steel cable strung across). With the rivers running higher as the day progressed, this posed a problem for people crossing the river later in the day. I crossed at 5:30 AM with mid shin depth, but one report from 8 PM had the water over the cable.

Avalanche lilies along the Wonderland Trail

For my almost 40 years in the park the stats for the Wonderland have been 93 miles with 22,000’ of climb/descent; this is what I based my days on. However, after tracking with GPS and Strava for a few years, the numbers for myself (and others reported on line) consistently come in higher. My totals were 101 miles with over 25,000’ of climb for the 3 days. I sometimes question the accuracy of Strava but I mention it here for people who are using these tools for tracking. My Strava stats: Day 1: Longmire to White River (CCW)-34.77 miles/8,787’…..Day 2: White River to So. Mowich River Camp-31.64 miles/8,198’…..Day 3: So. Mowich River Camp to Longmire-34.91 miles/8,720’. Adjust accordingly to mitigate surprises.

See my previous blog article for my kit….with food I guestimate 13 pounds. I never needed to carry more than 20 ozs of water, always spiked with Tailwind; the mild temperatures surely helped with this, as there were only a few periods where I was actually sweating. I judge myself to be in decent shape from hiking, biking and skiing. However, my legs were barking at the end of day 1 due to lack of downhill training. Otherwise I had no physical problems. My feet needed no attention and my pack was unnoticeable. Last year in my video of hike #32 I made the statement “maybe these 3 day hikes will become untenable”…. this will surely happen as I get older but I am encouraged by the fact that, at age 66, this was probably my best 3 day hike since the 90’s. For this I am thankful and look forward to next year’s Wonderland Trail Hike #34, whatever form that may take. Happy Hiking!

MRNP: Camp Muir Sandwich 7/7/21

Camp Muir is one of those hikes that just needs to be done at least once. It lies at 10,188’ and is the main staging point for climbs on this side of the mountain. In the spring it attracts boarders and skiers, but when the lower elevation snow subsides it sports conga lines of guided parties trudging up the snowfield in large groups one step away from each other….which I call the RMIllipede (RMI is the main guiding outfit here). I’ve come here many times over the years and decided to incorporate the hike in an endurance trainer, sandwiched with two bike rides from Cougar Rock Campground to Paradise.

Typical climbing group on the trek to Camp Muir

I started my day with an early getup but slept a little longer due to light rain. Eventually I got on the bike in fog and climbed the 2400’ up to Paradise, also still encased in cloud. My bike excursions were purposefully planned early and late in the day to avoid the heavy traffic during peak times. After returning to the van I quickly packed up and drove up to Paradise to secure a parking spot, as the craziness of these times means that parking can sometimes fill up even on a Wednesday in the middle of the day. After food and equipment changes, I was ready to start the hike. Just a week or so prior I had skinned right from the lot for a ski tour, but after the record setting heat wave at the end of June most of the lower elevation snow was gone. Temperatures were cool in the still foggy surroundings and it wasn’t until above 7000’ that the views opened up. Wild flowers were springing up on the hillsides and the views towards the rock were sublime. For once I was the one doing the passing as the climbers are laden with big packs and kept together (the guided ones) in groups, moving slowly but steadily upwards.

Stone shelters at Camp Muir (10,188’)

Camp Muir itself is a bustling little “town”, especially when the guided groups are milling around outside of their accommodations. The public shelter was closed and tents were sprinkled around the area on the lee side of the wind. I spent some time getting my snack on and taking pictures before launching for the descent. I became reacquainted with slop running down the snowfield, looking like a drunken person with legs flailing and sliding every which way. Next to skiing, this is a funnest way to descend and very speedy. This climb involves 4800’ of elev gain and loss and I was glad to get back to the van and drive away from the parking lot madness, returning to my spot at Cougar Rock campground.

Let the flower show begin! (trail to Pebble Creek)

View from the Paradise road

I admit, I had a moment of weakness. I took a hot shower, made a huge meal, sat back with a glass of wine as I watched something I had downloaded on NetFlix. My body was trying to convince my mind that maybe I didn’t need to do another bike ride and leave the comforts of home. But eventually I shamed myself back onto the bike as the hour approached 8 PM, telling myself that I could at least try it and just return if things weren’t going well. Much to my surprise my legs were ready to crank, and I set PRs for all the Strava segments on the climb. The evening traffic was sparse, the temperatures were just right for only wearing a jersey, and the sunlit peaks peeking through the trees made for the most enjoyable climb. Paradise was still foggy and by now few people were still hanging out. My descent into darkness involved pulling over for just one car; otherwise, the road was mine as I occupied the center. One of the best rides I’ve had here, for sure.

I love to mix disciplines and sandwiching Muir between these two bike rides gave me the endurance trainer I wanted with 9300’ of climb. Retirement is going well indeed!

The Nisqually River from the bridge, climbing (bike) to Paradise

Enchanted Valley Chalet over 7 Years: 2014-2021

In 2014 the Enchanted Valley Chalet was in danger of falling into the recent erosion that undercut the foundation. I hiked out there in April to document the scene with video and photos. Later that year in September, the chalet was moved 100 feet away from the eroded bank. However, further erosion has obliterated any remnants of the old foundation and the chalet now sits a mere 8 or so feet from the edge. NPS has yet to release a final disposition of what to do with the chalet. This video shows the status of the chalet in 2014/2015/2017 and most recently in 2021 so the viewer can see how the erosion has progressed over these 7 years. The chalet still stands for now.