Zion National Park

In the Narrows (Zion)

I like my solitude; going all day with no other person in sight allows for introspection and contemplation. Moments of peace and calm wash over and through me as I take in my surrounding's sights and smells. But you gotta be flexible, and all that solitude yak goes out the window in Zion. A relatively small national park, the canyon is hemmed in by sheer towering walls, cramming the visitors onto the canyon floor where the Virgin River continues its ongoing trenching. In 2017 Zion had 4.5 million visitors (compared to my stomping ground Mt. Rainier National Park, which saw 2 million). When my daughter and I were there for a weekend (July 6-8) sometimes it seemed like there were that many currently on the trails....but probably only hundreds. Now that I've set the lack of solitude tone, I'll say that the compensation comes in spades by the ever present vast visual palette.

One of the Emerald Pools (Zion National Park)

Tromping on any trail, the scenery changed constantly in a most spectacular fashion. The varying colors of the sandstone pop in direct and reflected light. The layers and etchings form lines of symmetry and chaos simultaneously. Whether looking down or craning your neck up to take in the lofty barriers, a craving for solitude is mitigated by this awesomeness of ocular overload, present even when raining. No wonder 4.5 million visitors came here in 2017.

Angel's Landing warning sign

The park seems to handle this well, with regular shuttle service to all the stops on the narrow canyon road, which surely would be unmanageable were cars allowed in. My daughter and I took advantage of these and the free town shuttles to the entrance to make forays into the park both early and late (the last park shuttle is 9:15 PM, town shuttle 10). Originally we were there with permit in hand for the 16 mile top to bottom Narrows hike. But it's monsoon season; afternoon thunderstorms and a "possible" flash flood advisory along with overcast skies at 5:00 AM had us change our plans to the much safer Angel's Landing hike, where only 6 people have plunged to their demise since 2004. Yeah. However, I was surprised to find out later that more deaths (7) have occurred on the seemingly innocuous Emerald Pools trail, which we did on Friday night.

NOTE: 3 days after our visit Zion saw 3 inches of rain in 3 hours, creating flash floods, rock and mud slides and closures of various trails and trail heads, including Highway 9

My daughter on top of Angel's Landing; 1400' feet down on all sides

I'm not a fan of exposed heights, but the start of Angel's Landing skirts a wide fin and doesn't look so bad, especially with chain rails in place. Once around the corner, though, I looked up at the route on a narrow and steep looking fin and thought, "Are you effing kidding me?" However, my daughter gave no hint of retreating and the hundreds of kids, older ones and tourists on route somewhat bolstered my confidence (shame is a powerful motivator); I set off with my daughter in tow to brave the thousand foot drops on either side. With concentration on foot and handwork my queasiness subsided and soon enough (despite the traffic jams) we found ourselves up top on the "plateau". Rain and wind started shortly thereafter, so we departed for the descent, the airiness magnified on the return. By now I was accustomed to the environment and we finished up just when the clouds parted and the sun boosted the temperature towards that day's high of 102 degrees.

We left all the people behind as we continued up the West Rim trail this Saturday, afterwards returning to the park in the evening to cooler temps, refreshing rain and lower elevation hiking. Combined with our Friday evening sojourns and my daughter's earlier Narrows hike, our interest was piqued enough to plan a return visit, adding to the 4 million plus that will clog the trails next year. We're good with that.

Descending "Walter's Wiggles" (Zion)

Powerful stone cutter: the Virgin River

On the West Rim trail

Wonderland Trail Outlook: 2018

The CPC outlook for May-June-July (MJJ) is indicating a warmer and drier than normal 3-month average for the entire state. The temperature outlook is calling for warmer than normal temperatures for the state, with slightly higher chances of above normal temperatures in southwestern WA. For precipitation, there are higher than normal chances of below normal precipitation statewide for May-July.      (Office of the Washington State Climatologist)

Continuous snow in Moraine Park above 5100' (june 6, 2018)

Snow levels above 5000 feet were robust this year, often accumulating when lower elevations were experiencing rain and warmer temperatures. With this in mind I have made forays into Mt. Rainier National Park to scope out conditions these past two weeks and will offer an opinion on Wonderland Trail snow conditions for 2018. First hand observations; once passing the 5000' level, there's lots of snow still in them thar hills.

On May 24th I biked the West Side Road and scoped out Klapatche Park, a backcountry camp that resides at 5500'. I encountered some snow at Round Pass (4000'), which required a short bike push, but this is assuredly melted by now. What I did find, hiking the St. Andrews Creek trail, was the predicted snow line right at 5100'. Clear 'til then, then pretty much continuous snow all the way to the camp. Neither the logs nor the sign was visible next to Aurora Lake, and snow levels in the camp varied from less than a foot to more than 6'. Clad in trail shoes, I encountered no serious post holing, although I did sink consistently above ankle height (no gaiters).

Klapatche Park (5500') and Aurora Lake (May 24, 2018)

Klapatche Park (5500') and Aurora Lake (June 9, 2015)

On June 6th I biked the Ipsut Creek trail and proceeded on the Wonderland to Moraine Park at 5700'. Maintenance is just starting, with the 3 person crew hard at work for this part of the mountain. Luckily, they had established a log to cross the Carbon River so I was able to continue up the trail past the Carbon Glacier terminus. No surprise, I encountered continuous snow just above 5100'. Levels varied but in some cases the depth far exceeded 6'. Once I hit the open meadow below Mystic Pass, the snow thinned considerably and I even had lunch on an exposed knoll and rock. On this trek the snow was consolidated enough to stride mostly on top, with only about 4 post holes on the descent later in the afternoon; again, trail runners with no gaiters. I did have to go feet wet on the return leg at Dick Creek due to the creek wandering around the end of the bridge, but the maintenance crews will probably deal with this before thru hikers start doin' their thing.

Moraine Park, June 6, 2018

Moraine Park, June 9, 2015

2015 was a low snow year and I hiked the west 57 miles on June 9th and 10th, providing the comparison photos above for contrast.

On June 10th I visited Summerland on a "Junuary" weekend, meaning rain, snow, occasional sun breaks and temps in the 40's. Snow started above 4800' and was continuous above the bridge at Fryingpan creek. Although we attempted to follow the summer trail up the switchbacks, steep runouts with lots of snow coverage dictated a descent via what I call the winter route, essentially end running the switchbacks by heading towards the creek right out of Summerland, then paralleling the creek until regaining the bridge. The weather was such that continuing on to Panhandle Gap, all on snow and climbing into cloud, seemed fruitless....needless to say there's still considerable snow coverage to the Gap and beyond.

Fresh snow added more than 4 inches to the already considerable coverage: crossing Fryingpan Creek

Fresh tracks end running the switchbacks, descending from Summerland (5900'), June 10, 2018

EDIT (June 24)   On this beautiful Sunday I biked the length of the West Side Road and hiked to Golden Lakes via the North Puyallup River Trail and the Wonderland. Silver Forest (about 1.5 miles to Golden Lakes) was snow free, but as soon as we entered the woods again there were significant stretches of snow remaining, varying in depth but sometimes over 4 feet. However, at least in this part of the trail, there was no detriment to navigation. The Wonderland thru-hiker couple I ran into had bypassed Klapatche Park, descending to the West Side Road from the South Puyallup River camp and hiking the same route I took to the North Puyallup River Camp, where I ran into them and accompanied them to Golden Lakes. Looks like it will be well into July before snow becomes a minor factor in hiking the trail.

Typical snow levels between Silver Forest and Golden Lakes (6/24/18)

Snow at Golden Lakes Patrol Cabin (6/24/18)

So early season hikers, meaning June and well into July, can expect varying levels of snow in the higher elevations of the trail. Consolidation is well under way, so forget the snow shoes (some may opt to pack some manner of microspikes and even an ice axe); your regular footwear should suffice. However, continued warm weather, as the CPC outlook indicates, will help the melt off considerably, especially if we don't encounter "Junuary." IOW, pretty much a normal year. I'm planning a fastpack of the Wonderland in late August or early September, so please say hi! Happy Hiking!

DISCLAIMER: Always check with the NPS and/or visit the website for current conditions. What works for me may not work for you, so always pack for your comfort level and experience. Lastly, don't hesitate to contact me if you have specific questions about the Wonderland Trail if you think my input may help you.

Snow in forested sections can offer navigation difficulties (Wonderland Trail to Summerland, 4800', June 10, 2018))

Plexamid: Zpacks Newest Solo Single Pole Tent

I just took delivery of the up and coming Zpacks single person/single pole tent. I believe Joe is going to make this available within a matter of weeks so I've started this post, which I will update regularly, for those in the market. This is tent #2, so there may be changes on the retail version. Tent #1 came in at 14.5 ozs/411 grams. This weight includes the tent, lines and stuff sack, but stakes and pole are not included. Although I don't own a gram scale, Joe says mine should be in the same ballpark. EDIT: My latest correspondence with Joe (6/14/18) has led me to make a few corrections in this post, one being the name: Plexamid it is. Also, the latest weight specs are 14.8 ozs in the stuff sack.

Plexamid fully closed overlapping vestibule doors

I own one of the original Duplexs also, and was in the market for a single person tent and have been researching options for about 6 months. I couldn't quite bring myself to buy the SolPlex as I wasn't crazy about the shorter pole in the rear. When I heard the Plexamid was in the works, I contacted Joe about getting a prototype. I paid $449 for this tent, which I believe will be a $100 discount for the upcoming retail version, as $549 seems in line with Zpacks' other offerings. This price, however, is only a guess....it may well be cheaper. EDIT: The Plexamid is now listed on Zpacks site for sale, indeed at $549.

Plexamid: 14.8 ozs incl stuff sack.

Plexamid profile

Initial impressions are good. This tent is light to the point of me considering ditching my usual tarp and bivy combo, which, depending on the selection, weighs about the same or more than the Plexamid. Sit up room seems on par with the Duplex. At 6' I don't come close to touching the sides of the tent. The advantage over a tarp/bivy combo at the same weight: a fully enclosed shelter with a roomy vestibule, bathtub floor and full netting door. My initial pitch (no instructions of course) used a pole from my Duplex at 48 inches; at first I thought perhaps the pole height should be higher because the rear bathtub floor was rather flat and I had the rear of the tent pitched close to the ground, but Joe says 48 inches is what it is designed for and I should tilt the front of the tent to raise the rear end, creating more space between the tent and ground.  I will dial in the setup before taking it out on an overnight.

To create more room, the Plexamid uses a sturdy rectangular patch reinforced with fiberglass rods, creating about a 12 inch spreader at the peak. 

The pole goes in the center, allowing the tent to overhang the netting door, probably allowing the tent to be fully open in non wind driven rain with no incursion. I like this design element, creating just enough head space where I can sit up without encroaching on the roof before it slopes down in the rear. It looks like one should position oneself close to the door, using the adjacent space towards the rear as storage for other items. The overlapping vestibule doors will keep wind driven rain at bay so one doesn't have to scooch towards the rear of the tent. Of course, I am basing this off design elements, not actual usage in poor weather.

Plexamid has good sit up room (I am 6'). Note zipper door is closed.

Me being 6 feet tall, I find the tent provides good head and foot room, plus it's wide enough to put clothing and other items inside the tent. The vestibule looks to be the size of a Duplex, so plenty of room for shoes and pack. My only con so far is the number of stakes it requires....6 for the corners and front/back, plus 4 more tie outs on the sides and ends. The Plexamid comes with line locks on every line with plenty of play to position stakes with some leeway, plus the line is reflective. Years ago I called the Duplex "the best 2 person tent for backpacking." This new offering from Zpacks looks like a solo contender for many of the same reasons. Clearly the crew at Zpacks has taken the best design elements of the Plex and Hexamid tents to create this single pole solo tent; the materials, the vestibule closures, the bathtub floor and netting door....with years of experience manufacturing with Dyneema Composite Fabrics of various weights, Zpacks has built on its expertise to create this natural evolution in its solo tent design. I look forward to using it in my various outings this season and beyond.

12 inch spreader patch (outside) on the Plexamid

Overlapping vestibule hook attachment

Plexamid tie out reinforcements

Plexamid mesh pocket on entry side

Plexamid profile view with vestibule deployed

Plexamid with XLite and 6' stretched out burly model

Well folks, here it is two years later….November 25, 2020….and I have yet to use this tent. In fact, during this time I have yet to use A tent, with the exception of the one provided when my daughter and I did the Inca Trail. All of my hikes have either been one day or I’ve used a bivy bag for the overnights, including the overnights my daughter and I did this year in Sequoia (4 days) and Yosemite (3 days). I purchased this tent preparing for retirement, as surely I would need a light one person tent for a multi day trip….where a bivy setup would not be appropriate. Hasn’t happened yet. By now there must be reviews of the Plexamid on the netherweb by people who have actually used it. As stated in the beginning of this article, I was merely showing what the tent looked like and provided some pics and thoughts on its release. Happy hiking!

Olympic Peninsula Bike Orbit: Apr 22-25

Selfies at Ruby Beach, Day 2

I thought I'd kick off this season with a bike trip, so convinced a buddy of mine to join me on this orbit. The west side of the Peninsula dictated a couple of century days, made longer by the closure of Highway 101, adding 14 miles to day 2, and a reroute for safety on day 3, adding 16 miles. The last day was thankfully short at 47 miles, as I was suffering from a static crash on day 3 when starting out clipped in; I slid on some gravel in the turn and took the brunt of the fall on my left side and knee. I was also dealing with saddle sores, a first for me. Luckily Lars was a strong rider with a positive attitude, making this trip a pleasure for both of us.

Salsa Cutthroat in hotel room

Our bikes were packed for lodging overnights, carrying not only the clothes and accoutrements for hotels but more extensive repair and medical kits; the west side is far from any kind of easy assistance. These more weighty steeds of course had an impact on our climbing and overall speed, but we still managed over 350 miles to make the 1:30 ferry on day 4. We totally lucked out on the weather with a high pressure system sitting over the PNW, providing clear skies and unseasonably warm weather. Although there were areas of lovely scenery and tranquil riding, so much of the transit dealt with varying road shoulders and speeding trucks, RVs and other vehicles that we cannot really recommend this ride due to the road hazards, at least not in our iteration. Please enjoy the video chronicle of this interesting outing below, and be safe out there!

STATS: Day 1 - 75 miles/4000'//Day 2: 112 miles/5600'//Day 3: 118 miles/3500'//Day 4: 47 miles/2300'

TOTAL: 353 miles/15,400'

Enlightened Equipment Recon Bivy Review

Bivy, 1994, Glacier Peak Kennedy Glacier

I've been using bivy bags for 30 years, starting in the early 90s with a Feathered Friends Gore-Tex bivy. In fact, I might venture a guess that I have at least as many nights in a bivy bag as I do in a tent. Short bivys, long bivys, bivys when it's hot....tall bivys, breathable bivys, bivys when it's not. You get the gist, lots of nights in bivys. Just about all the climbs I did were in bivy bags, including one cold night on Mt. Rainier's Ingraham Glacier with no sleeping bag or pad; I tried to sleep in my down parka, on top of my backpack and boots, wearing mittens on my feet. I don't think I did (sleep, that is). But my trusty bivy kept the breezes at bay and enough heat inside to only be uncomfortable, not dangerous.

Now, everyone knows that condensation is a problem with bivy bags, or can be depending on the conditions. I've had good results with a custom Borah Gear bivy with an eVent top and cuben bottom. I have a smaller and lighter one made with lighter cuben and the latest iteration of cuben (now Dyneema Composite Fabrics) with eVent. These fall under the category of "weatherproof" and are a different animal than a bivy like the Recon. I've packed these for both backpacking trips with fair weather and emergency bags on longer hikes. As for "non-weatherproof" bivy bags I've used the first iteration of the ZPacks Splash and a Borah Gear cuben bivy, with the breathable top and mesh section over the head. That first design of the Splash was, well, terrible, with a fiddly netting section. I would venture even the updated version wasn't too popular, as of this writing I can't find it anywhere on the ZPacks website. The Borah is nice, especially for the price and weight. But I couldn't help but pick up a Recon when they first came out as the design looked well thought out and promising

EE Recon on Glacier Peak orbit (with ZPacks Pocket Tarp and Poncho/Groundsheet

EDIT: EE has discontinued the Recon (as of Mar 2021). Go to Enlightened Equipment for specs on the Recon and some nice photos. I had great results with it last year (2017) on a number of trips, most notably a circumnavigation of Glacier Peak and RIMROBOD. The central zipper makes it a cinch to enter and exit, and there is just enough solid material to help keep breezes at bay and add a little protection from spray. I can't attest to the efficacy of water prevention in foul weather (under a tarp) because I'm no fool, I packed the Recon when I had reasonably good weather forecasts for my trips. However, I can vouch for conditions where this bivy shines: good weather, open or under a tarp, where breathability is important and one wants protection from bugs and critters. Lots of room to put my (granted, smallish) pack inside (RIMROBOD), plus clothing, full pad and bag (Glacier Peak). I don't mind mesh touching my face so I never felt the need to use the cord to keep the area over the head suspended, but this is a nice touch were I to spend any amount of time in it under a tarp. On Glacier Peak I used a minimalist tarp on two nights to keep nighttime low flying clouds at bay, but the other two nights I just plopped down the bivy open air, once above 5,000' under a large fir, and once in deep woods just off the trail. The large mesh area makes condensation worry moot, unless it's dripping off something above you. I certainly had no moisture worries in my use, and I find that fully enclosed bivys like this alleviate any concerns I may have during the evening from blood sucking bugs or venomous snakes. You know, lots of both up here in the PNW. On another use I caught some zzzzs taking a break during a quad busting bike trip, laying out the bivy on some soft ground for a few hours of sleep. No critter incursions then, with the exception of my food. No place to hang so I put it on top of a stone wall by the road. Bad idea, and I didn't have a critter proof bag.

EE Recon open bivy on Glacier Peak at sunrise

After using so many bivys over the years, including a custom half bag made by ZPacks back when Joe would do custom work, I quite like this Recon. I like the design, the balance of well placed mesh and solid material, the extremely easy entry/exit through the center zip....this is perhaps one of the most important considerations when using a bivy, if anyone has struggled to get in and out of one that is a simple envelope with a zipper only across the top. Don't do it! Some online observations wished for a more robust floor, the Recon being 15D vice 20. This was not a consideration for me as I had a ZPacks cuben Poncho/Groundsheet for the Glacier Peak orbit and I had planned exactly where to rest on RIMROBOD. As with any tent or bivy, if one is planning on camping on difficult terrain then some sort of ground sheet may be in order anyway. My ZPacks Poncho/Groundsheet is 1.45 cuben (latest version now 1.0) so really bombproof. And you'll notice from my pix that I'm still using the ZPacks Pocket Tarp under favorable circumstances, like the GP orbit. This makes for a very versatile and light weight setup: 6 ozs Recon/4 Ozs Pocket Tarp/6 ozs poncho/ground sheet. If open air cowboy camping is your thing, as it is mine, then not being confined to a tent is especially appealing, yet still with protection from anything but rain. Plus, the price is right. I'll definitely be using the Recon in some of my upcoming trips in 2018 due to its versatility. Lastly, I gotta mention that I paid full price for this item and have no affiliation with Enlightened Equipment. It also means I'm completely unhindered in my views, with no obligation or subtle pressure that may come with sponsorship or freebies. And as always, consider your own usage and requirements before purchasing a piece of equipment based only on someone else's view. But in that light I hope my positive experiences with the Recon so far are helpful in one's search for information.

EE Recon open bivy on Mt. Rainier bike trip

Outdoor Research Wilderness Cover review

The discontinued OR "Wallcreeper"

A year or two back I saw a sale on the Outdoor Research Wallcreeper Gore-Tex poncho/bivy for $200, reduced from over $700 on the OR military site. I decided to take a chance and tried to order it, but alas, on checkout the message read "out of stock." Then, behold, OR released their "Wilderness Cover" this past year, essentially the same as the Wallcreeper but made out of OR's Ventia (2.5L, 100% nylon, 70D ripstop PU coating) material, offered at $199. I picked one up in black and have used it and packed it this past season on enough occasions to render an opinion.

This is an odd piece of kit for sure, and one must determine if it fits into their own style of packing. I deem it relatively heavy at 24 0zs/680G so it doesn't particularly fall into a UL category; but then, as is true with many things, it depends on the usage. It also packs fairly large, another downside. However, these same qualities can also make it an appropriate choice. For instance, I have a fairly pricey Cuben WPB custom bivy made by Borah Gear that I ensure has a good ground sheet under it to protect the fairly fragile floor. With the Wilderness Cover (WC) I have no qualms just spreading it out over any surface with no concerns of protecting the fabric, because the Ventia is fairly cheap and rugged. Plus I can wear the WC as rain gear, which I tested extensively on an all day jaunt in steady soaking rains. I began that day with much skepticism, as the WC is quite long (fully opened, 72" X 64.5") to act as a bivy so the bottom must be cinched up at the waist for ambulation. I was pleasantly surprised that using it in this poncho configuration offered no resistance to high stepping or any leg reaching moves during an on trail climb to a back country lake. Plus one can see from the video screen grabs that it reaches down to calf level (I am 6' tall) so also offers substantial protection to the upper legs. However, it doesn't allow the ventilation options like a regular poncho unless unzipped in the front, which is counter productive in a steady rain.

The packed size of the OR Wilderness Cover

I don't put much stock in WPB fabrics any more, as anyone who has spent considerable time in drenching rain with any miracle jacket soon finds out that you eventually get wet anyway from buildup of internal moisture....I have found ventilation is the key, which is why I like ponchos in certain conditions. With the WC I wore a fleece underneath on that late November jaunt, and aside from my exposed arms did not notice clamminess nor was cognizant of any wetness related discomfort. However, when I got home and spread out the WC to dry, there was moisture evident on the interior of the fabric. This may become a factor if using the WC as rain gear all day and then transitioning to bivy mode. However, all gear offers a compromise in some aspects and overall I was quite satisfied with the WC in poncho mode, which also has a wide coverage hood. I found that wearing a cap underneath helped keep the hood from getting too low over my eyes, as the hood design is large enough to cover one's head and face in bivy mode. I also found that in poncho mode the WC could easily accommodate my day pack, although I went through some contortions to get it on over the pack.

The OR Wilderness Cover in use as a fully enclosed bivy bag

In bivy mode the WC offers a few advantages, in that in fine weather one can just open it completely up like a blanket and just use it as a ground sheet. If the temperature drops, the wind intensifies or any moisture comes into play, then simply zip it up, including the arm slots, and close the bottom. The hood can completely cover the head with a convenient snap that will keep it in place. Because my head was outside the confines of this bivy mode when I slept in it, my breath did not condense inside and I noticed no buildup of moisture; however, the material does not have the best "hand" and feels rather clammy against the skin.

The Wilderness Cover as rain gear

I see the Wilderness Cover serving me well in particular circumstances, such as alpine bivys on scree and uneven terrain. I have a few trips planned this year where I will be sleeping above treeline on the flanks of Mt. Rainier (see the "35 Years in MRNP" pulldown) with sunset/sunrise and night photography in mind. With the WC I can stay in my bag and bivy, even sitting up, utilizing the arm slots to tend the camera but staying snug inside (I plan on using a ZRest pad versus a blow up). I have also packed the WC on day hikes as emergency shelter or rain gear.

Over the decades I have purchased gear with high hopes but soon find out limitations when I hit the trail, sometimes completely discarding a hopeful piece of kit when these limitations far outweigh usefulness. I bought the Wilderness Cover with skepticism, anticipating that I would find this to be so. However, despite being fairly heavy and bulky, in some circumstances this has proven to be very handy, and perhaps in 2018 I will get even more use out of it with higher altitude bivys. As for emergency gear, the fact that the WC not only can be used in different configurations...poncho, bivy and tarp (it has tie outs for this purpose)....I find its actual real world usefulness as a poncho and bivy worth the space and weight penalty....sometimes. Consider that I can bring along a WPB bivy (9 ozs) and tarp with stakes (4 ozs) for half the weight and space (but I would still need rain gear), and one can see that careful consideration is required based on personal usage before laying out the cash for a piece of kit like the Wilderness Cover. However, I can attest to its efficacy as both rain gear and bivy.

The Wilderness Cover can accommodate smaller packs

Willis Wall Happy Holidays 2017

It's that time of year again, where I get an excuse to arrange some holiday music and show clips from this year's sojourns of hiking, biking and skiing, including:

Mt. Rainier: Wonderland Trail, Inter Glacier, Russell Glacier, Steamboat Prow, RIMROBOD, Ipsut Creek, Green Lake, off trail, Success Cleaver, West Side Road

Olympics: Hoh Rainforest, Enchanted Valley, Ruby Beach

Glacier Peak Wilderness, PCT

Best wishes to all viewers for this and the coming year.

Paradise to Longmire Bike: Update/Newly Paved

I know, another bike video, but I wanted to show the difference in the 11 mile section between Longmire and Paradise (MRNP); the repaving project has been going on for 4 years, the last two years improving and finishing this stretch. As one of my regular bike training routes, the difference is remarkable, with smooth sailing now from Paradise all the way to the park's Nisqually entrance. In the following video (available in 2K resolution), I have the upper portion showing the downhill ride (October 30, 2017) running concurrently with a 3 camera (Left, Center, Right) sequence I filmed in February of 2014. I frequently had to pause the latest ride for the 2014 sequence to "catch up", probably due to a number of factors: better bike, better road, better visibility with no snowbanks etc. In my 35 years of roaming this park, I like to document changes. Pour yourself a cool one, sit back and enjoy the ride.

The RV Conundrum: Making do with a 2002 Avalanche

Sometimes, when parking at trailheads or lots before a hike, I look longingly at that Sprinter Van conversion or cool RV and think how nice it would be to come back at the end of the hike and take a shower, change clothes, crank up the heat and cook a meal. Or how about taking off for a few weeks for far flung hikes, using my traveling home as base camp? As I near retirement I've been perusing all the options, but I keep coming back to the central drawback: cost. Even those bare bones tear drop trailers can run 10K; I think, for 10K I can stay in nice hotels or Inns, eat lavish food and never have to worry about insurance, maintenance and storage. And 10K is the low end when one starts looking at Sprinter conversions and the like (Earth Roamer anyone? Just a quarter mil for the cheap one). So recently I decided on a much more practical and frugal alternative, making a few upgrades to my "vintage" 2002 Chevy Avalanche. For those unfamiliar, the Avalanche has a mid gate that folds on top of the rear folding seats, opening up the space from the front seats to the tailgate, essentially 8 feet in length by 4 feet wide. I've taken good care of it over the years and it is still in fine shape with just 145,000 miles, not bad considering it was my main vehicle for a decade, carting kids everywhere, going to work, loading it with construction materials, even hauling rocks, beauty bark and pallets. It's also a well balanced and capable 4WD

a Zodi hot shower with pop up tent, supplied from 7.5 gallon container (secured to rear bed side wall)

My daughter prepping breakfast before a St. Helens climb, 2007.

I just needed to add a few lux items to give me those amenities I (we) needed. I fashioned a screen window for the removable rear window for those warm nights, cutting a piece of wood to matching dimensions of the window, then jigging cutouts for the screen. I addressed cramped quarters (the bed is 8 feet long, leaving 2 feet of storage at the tail gate area for gear), especially if two of us were sleeping in it, by adding a rear deck rack for gear with room for a bike rack. Here's where things like shoes, poles, snowshoes, stove, folding chairs and other miscellaneous equipment can reside without cramming things in the front seats or leaving them out in the open on the rear deck. The best addition has to be the Zodi hot shower and shower tent, as there is nothing better after a strenuous day than a hot shower and clean clothes. Cooking is easy on the tail gate or folding table, and I keep a container stocked with plates, utensils, folding sink, percolator (gotta have hot coffee) and the rest of the kitchen gear. If rain is in the forecast I can pack a folding canopy for the rear of the truck to stay dry while cooking. I've always had a small inverter stowed in the truck for charging electronics and a LumenAid solar powered light bathes the small interior with soft light. Add in a few bags or bins for clothes and gear and I've got everything I need for multiple nights out. Sure, I don't have the standup room of an RV or trailer and nature calls have to be done, well, in nature. But for a comparatively small expenditure of funds I've been comfortable this year so far with over 2 weeks of use, both solo and with my daughter or a buddy.

DIY 2.5 inch foldable pad for two, inexpensive sleeping bag and soft bed liner: CUSH!

Just like gear, it all depends on the user's needs. This is intended as a base camp. It's stealthy, giving no hint of occupancy from the casual observer if parked in a lot (the rear windows are tinted). It can go anywhere with 4WD and excellent clearance, including skid plates. It's old enough to not worry about getting scratched, dirty or dinged. It's been paid for for years, and with regular maintenance it should go for many more as it is no longer my main vehicle. Best of all I am free from the thought of spending thousands of dollars on a trailer or vehicle for what in reality would be occasional use. Now, my chariot awaits for my next overnight this weekend!

Rear rack uses Yakima Q30 Q Tower Clips and Q Towers, plus 50 inch round bars, allowing side compartments to open

EDIT OCT 30, 2020: I have sold this Avalanche after using it in this mode for 18 years. In March of 2020 I retired, and in August we sold our house. I did actually spring for a Winnebago Solis and lived in it for 3 months, exploring California, Oregon, Washington and Yellowstone before rejoining my wife (see the blog for trip reports).

Orbiting 6 PNW Volcanoes

This isn't a "thing" like the Bulger list. Unless you want it to be. In total these orbits work to be 403 miles with 82,500 feet of elevation, give or take. Although each of these 6 volcano orbits are posted on this blog, I'll synopsize each one and provide a link for those interested in the details. I will list them in order of difficulty, at least in my humble opinion. Orbiting the 6 major PNW volcanoes samples some of the best the Cascade Range has to offer. Loops in general are desirable, not having to repeat sections like out and backs. The eyes take in ever changing terrain as one orbits the central mass, each mountain presenting a new face from different angles and elevations and the trails taking the hiker through different ecological zones. In short, these are just very cool trips.

#1 MT. HOOD TIMBERLINE TRAIL (40 miles/8,000')

The Timberline is longer than St. Helens (Loowit) and Mt. Adams, but my daughter and I found this trail delightful in all aspects and fairly straightforward. Moderate elevation gains on forgiving trail and terrain, rife with crystalline water sources. When we did this trail it was still officially closed because of the eradicated section across Eliot Creek. It was still doable of course, one simply had to scurry on unofficial trail into the gorge. There were even fixed ropes on either side for assistance. Suitable fords could be found with minimal scanning of the roiling water. Now the trail is officially reopened with a rerouted section lower down with a bridge, eliminating the only real difficulty on the orbit. Aside from a number of feet wet crossings, the Timberline provided scenic nonstrenuous travel through various zones. Although we took 3 days for this trail, most of the first day was involved with travel and we finished early on the 3rd day.

The Timberline offers a wide variety of views

Fording Eliot Creek; no longer required with the recent reroute

#2 MT. ST HELENS LOOWIT TRAIL (30 miles/7,000')

Although shorter with less elevation gain than the Timberline, I would have to put the Loowit as slightly more difficult simply because of the boulder fields, exposed areas that offer little respite from the baking sun reflecting off the northern lava fields, fewer water sources and some scrambly ravine crossings (one with ropes). It's one of a kind though, in that the 1980 eruption evidence is still visible and ever changing. Ghostly trees are laid out in one direction, sometimes amidst grasses, flowers and new growth. Transiting the blast zone is surreal, especially as one enters or exits the two borders on the east and west sides. Go from moonscape to old growth in the same day. This trail should be on everyone's list.

New growth amidst the fallen on Mt. St. Helens' Loowit Trail

Looking back on Pumice Plain, Mt. St. Helens north side blast zone

#3 MT BAKER (95 miles/10,500')

Baker is an odd one for sure, as there is no trail that encircles the mountain. There have been ski circumnavigations and even a party of two that battled incessant devil's club in an off trail journey more than a decade ago. Emulating that trip would elevate this orbit to the most difficult spot, but if one thinks out of the box there is an easier way around. I completed this orbit in 2 days by transiting the west side via bike, eventually forging back closer to the mountain on FS Road 38, where I stashed the wheels (after 58 miles) and took to ambulation. By connecting various trails and roads (starting with Ridley Creek), I was able to regain my vehicle at the Lake Ann trail head after 37 miles of walking/trotting. I pushed hard on the first day, completing 22 miles of hiking after the bike portion, stopping around midnight for some rest. This allowed me to finish early enough on day 2 to drive around and retrieve my bike, which took almost 2 hours just for FS 38 (13 miles one way and rough) and be home that night. Plan accordingly if contemplating this orbit, not just for the logistics of involving a bike drop off and pickup, but for packing requirements for these two disciplines. In the grand scheme of things none of this was particularly difficult, just a bit odd. But the Mt. Baker Wilderness is a jewel and I found that riding Highway 542 and the other connecting roads around was extremely pleasant in its own right, something to be enjoyed and not endured. 

Delights along the road during the 58 mile bike section, Mt. Baker orbit

Mt. Baker in view on the Park Butte trail, part of the orbit

#4 MT. RAINIER'S WONDERLAND TRAIL (93 miles/22,000')

The distance and elevation are not easy by any means, and the time commitment for some parties might make logistics a concern. The Wonderland also requires permits, adding to the logistics mix. However, this whole trail is well maintained and every backcountry camp has a loo and bear poles. One can also resupply from caches stowed beforehand, and there are multiple places for possible meetup with support (Longmire, Sunrise, White River, Box Canyon, Reflection Lakes, Mowich Lake and even Carbon River if you want to walk the 5 miles to the entrance). Mt. Rainier has been my stomping ground since the early 80's; I have done the Wonderland about 30 times, taking from 36 hours to 6 days. Obviously something keeps me coming back, so this destination hike is well worth the visit.

St. Andrews Lake on the Wonderland, Sep 2015

A snow free Panhandle Gap (6800'), highest point on the Wonderland Trail

#5 MT. ADAMS (35 miles/8,000')

With stats akin to Hood and St. Helens, at first glance one might wonder why I rank this orbit harder than the Wonderland. A quick study of the map and the answer becomes evident....there is no trail on the rugged east side (on Yakama land). The "Round-The-Mountain" trail doesn't go 'round the mountain. In orbiting (lower than the Green Trail Map) one must contend with the 5 mile off trail section with a skill set that goes beyond basic backpacking. Map reading, route finding, river fording and confidence are a must. However, technically nothing more than mild scrambling is required. I transited the Yakama section in one day so permits were not an issue, and once back on trail the going is easy, scenic and delightful. This orbit is not often done, so this adds to one's sense of accomplishment. This was a two day trip for me.

Mt. Adams from Devils Garden

Start of the off trail portion on Mt. Adams east side

#6 GLACIER PEAK CIRCUMNAVIGATION (110 miles/27,000')

Glacier Peak presents some difficulties above the others. There are various ways to orbit the mountain, the shortest using High Pass to the Napeequa on the east side. This requires off trail (although there is an evident path) travel, however. Going further east lengthens the trip to over 100 miles (110 for my iteration), with elevation gains upwards of 27,000'. Another tick of difficulty is negotiating the south side trails; White River is reportedly a nightmare of blowdown, washouts, brush and scant trail that hasn't seen maintenance in over 10 years. Indian River is better, but also unmaintained. It's hot, buggy with overgrown brush (frequently head high), rife with blowdown and washed out areas. 11 miles of pure delight. Bailout options are few and difficult, and resupply would also present challenges. Many parties take more than a week for this trip, carrying 7 to 12 days of food. But I'm just listing some difficulties here, the rewards are immense. Some consider this orbit, and the Glacier Peak Wilderness area in general, to be some of the best in the Cascades. I tend to agree.

The verdant Napeequa Valley on the climb to Little Giant Pass, Glacier Peak

Glacier Peak from the west side on the PCT

SUMMARY

My trips involved 17 days total, with 3 of these orbits taking 2 days (Loowit, Adams, Baker) and the Timberline certainly doable in 2. I fastpacked the Wonderland in 2015 in 3 days, and my recent and last Glacier Peak orbit was over 5 days. If the reader uses this info as a guide, consider that some of my days were quite long, i.e. a 35 mile day on the Wonderland, an 80 mile day on Baker (incl. biking), and a few longer days around Glacier Peak to average 22 miles per day (stopped at midnight on day 4). For max enjoyment and less punishment, I might suggest 2 for Loowit, 3 for Hood, 3 for Adams, 3 or 4 for Baker, at least 7 for Rainier's Wonderland and 9 for Glacier Peak, for a total of about 28 days. Glacier Peak offers the most variety for putting a trip together, limited only by your imagination. I got to enjoy half of these trips (Loowit, Timberline, Wonderland) with my daughter, adding to each unique sojourn. If anything, completing these orbits introduced me to fantastic areas outside my usual stomping ground; indeed, they kindled a desire to explore more of the North Cascades and helped open my eyes to the vast outdoor playground here in the Pacific Northwest.

Willis Wall on the Indian River trail, 2016